Category: Trip Reporting

Reports from the road

  • Northeast Jailbreak at Gray Ghost Inn

    August 5 to August 8, 2010 in West Dover, Vermont

    My pictures from Vermont: http://motorcycle-journeys.com/current/photos/vermont/index.html

    I finally got a cool day of riding (temperature). I had made it to Conneaut, OH Wednesday night around 8:00 PM. It was pouring rain when I first looked outside at 6:00 AM but had stopped before 7:00 so I could load the motorcycle and get on the road. Many, many miles of wet roads through Pennsylvania and New York yet somehow I was never rained on the entire day.

    The scenery started getting pretty once I was east of Utica, NY and was much better after I exited I-90, took I-87 north briefly, and got on Route 7 to get out of New York. I’m not a big fan of  interstate highways due to the lack of scenery but it was necessary to make up the time I lost in Louisville.

    Gray Ghost Inn the evening I arrived.

    I made it to West Dover around 5:30 on Thursday. Arrival accomplished in four days but only 2 and 1/2 days of riding after spending a day and a half in Louisville, KY getting the motorcycle repaired. Quite a few riders had gotten there the day before so I was one of the last to arrive.

    The Gray Ghost Inn is owned by Magnus and Carina Thorsson (http://www.grayghostinn.com) and is extremely motorcycle friendly, but I would recommend it for riders and non-riders alike. The setting is gorgeous with nothing but green in the back, large decks along the rear of the Inn with a hot tub, grass that slopes down to a swimming pool and fire pit. It’s a B&B so you get a great full breakfast every morning.

    Our group spent evenings in lawn chairs circled around the fire pit swapping stories after riding all day and Magnus prepared a wonderful dinner for the group on Saturday night.

    Gray Ghost InnI rode alone on Friday so I could stop and take pictures whenever I wanted. Magnus has a binder at the front desk with motorcycle routes and when I picked the “Covered Bridge Route” he highlighted a Vermont map and talked me through the entire route so I knew exactly where I was going.

    What a great place to ride — no traffic to deal with, gorgeous green mountains, homes and towns from the late 1700’s, and covered bridges. My route also included a stop at “100 Mile View” where you could see mountains all the way to Massachusetts.

    On Saturday Carina took me on a tour of the Green Mountain area which included a stop at Grafton Village Cheese Company where I bought incredible aged cheese (Grafton is a beautiful New England town), more covered bridges, a stop in Peru, Vermont where the movie Baby Boom was filmed, and then a great lunch in Manchester (another stunning New England town) at Candeleros Southwestern Grill before returning to the inn. Carina is such a great person and I feel very fortunate that I was able to spend a day riding with her.

    Carina at stop in Peru, Vermont

    The temperatures were exquisite — mid 70’s during the day and it even dropped down to 39 degrees Saturday morning. I wore my jacket liner that day and it was almost perfect riding weather. Such a relief after the heat on the ride north.

    The Chain Gang members from the Northeast were all very nice people and I’m glad I had to the opportunity to meet them and have time to talk and get to know them. We had three riders from Ontario, and then riders from Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Connecticut, Massachusetts, New York, Washington, DC, Vermont, and me from Texas.

    Sunday morning I left to ride north on Route 100 to head to the Canadian border under sunny skies and 70 degree temperatures.

  • Interesting start to the trip, part 2

    I was up at 5:30 but needed to wait for a little daylight to check the motorcycle. First thing I did was turn it on to check the head light. Nothing. I didn’t even pull the ABS sensor. I replaced the blown fuse and sent an email to Rick in Louisville that I was heading that way and started packing the bike.

    I could deal with no speedometer, an inacurate odometer (huge pain in the butt when you don’t have a fuel guage), and no ABS. I felt no head light was an official show stopper.

    Rick and I talked and he came to help me check out the motorcycle. The fuse was blown again. Since the HID ballast could be causing electrical problems he thought I should switch back to the OEM bulb. I still had no ABS and the speedo was off, so I decided to take it to the local BMW dealer that was, fortunately, only 5 minutes away. Rick let me follow him and came in to make sure the service guys took care of me. Interesting dealership. The local Harley Davidson dealer bought out the BMW dealer and now carries both motorcycles under the same roof. The mechanics moved too. Am I the only one that thinks HD and BMW are a strange mix?

    As soon as I arrived they pulled the motorcycle in, put it on the computer and there was only an ABS fault. I can’t get the motorcycle on the center stand. Once on the stand one quick spin of the wheel showed the problem. About 25% of the ABS ring on the rear wheel was missing. Just broken off and gone. I guess that explains why the speedo wasn’t right and why the ABS computer couldn’t figure out what to do. 

     The tech had never seen a broken ABS ring and didn’t know they break. Good news was the ring would be covered by my extended warranty. Bad news was they weren’t carried in stock (since they never break) so it would have to be overnighted from BMW.

    Unfortunately 2 hours of labor later (on my tab) all that was found was a loose positive battery post connection. This could definitely cause the fuse to blow, but no guarantee.

    Everyone at the dealership was really great to me all day. I got a call from the extended warranty company and they wanted a picture emailed of the broken ring so they could approve the claim and pay the dealer tomorrow and I could be on my way. Wow. If you do not have an extended warranty and want one I recommend Western. I bought the 4 year extended warranty before I left on the Canada trip last year and it has more than paid for itself and the people at the company are absolutely wonderful. I am so glad I have it.

    Even the customers were really nice at the dealership — mostly Harley riders. One who is extremely familiar with roads headed to New England mapped out an entire route complete with recommended fuel stops (nice facilities). He knew I would be running behind and wanted to get me there as quickly as possible.

    The tech called later in the day to ask if my tires were new — I had new ones put on a short time before the trip. He said possibly the ring was damaged when the new tire was mounted. Considering I had to take the front tire in to have it remounted the day before I left because it was leaking air, if the rear ABS ring was broken too that was the most expensive tire change I hope I ever have.

    The new ring, hopefully, will arrive tomorrow morning. They will put it on as soon as it gets there and hope to have me on the road by noon. The only downside being the temp is supposed to be 102 here tomorrow.

    Once again I say you don’t find out how really great people can be until something goes wrong.

    I forgot to mention — Rick called to check on me this afternoon and if the part doesn’t arrive he wants to bring the rear wheel off his F50 down and swap with mine so I can get on the road. Like I said — you get to find out how great people can be. I won’t let him do that, but how cool that he even thought of it.

  • Interesting start to the trip, part 1

    Due to the forecast for 106 degrees in Dallas I was up at 2:30 yesterday morning hoping to be on the road by 3:30. I backed the motorcycle out of the garage, started it, and wondered why it was so dark. The brain was moving a little slow, but I realized — no head light.

    Back into the garage and I pulled the HID bulb only to find out it was a blown fuse. Back in goes the HID, fuse replaced, and I hit the road at 4:20. Of course I’m wondering while I ride what electrical problem I could have that would be blowing fuses.

    The early morning ride went great since I was able to scoot through Dallas in next to no traffic. I even got seriously cold right around dawn when the temperature dropped to the mid 70’s. Due to the heat I was trying shorts and wicking top under mesh jacket and mesh pants. I told myself to enjoy the cold since it wasn’t going to last long.

    I made a fuel stop a little after dawn and I could feel the temperature start to rise when I was back on the highway. Around 8:00 I watched my speedometer drop down to 0, come back up, drop again and then settle about 10 miles an hour below my actual speed. About that time the the ABS light came on and stayed on.

    Shorting head light, bad speedo, no ABS — just dandy.

    You can imagine was I was thinking about while I rode. I figured I’d keep going and research the problems on the internet when I stopped for the day. I was through Little Rock around 9:30 and turned north just west of Memphis before noon.

    About that time the speedo spazzed out again and settled at around 20 MPH below actual speed. I kept going.

    I reached my intended destination of Union City, TN for day 1 around 1:00 in the afternoon — not tired and not prepared to be bored for the rest of the afternoon. I was told at the Tennessee welcome center that Elizabethtown, KY was about 4 hours out but I didn’t want to go that far in the heat.

     I took Purchase Parkway north into Kentucky and then the Western Kentucky Parkway east — little traffic on either so I was making great time. I thought 4:00 would be a good time to call it a day since it was really getting hot, but there just wasn’t any lodging along the parkway so I ended up at Elizabethtown after all.

    815 miles in 100 degree heat. I had grabbed my cooling vest at the last minute and think it’s the only reason I could keep riding. At every fuel stop I would take in a zip lock bag, put a couple inches of ice in it, throw the vest in and fill it with water and close it up. The vest would soak while I got fuel and I would put it on dripping wet (and ice cold). Since my odometer was off due to my speedo malfunctioning I was stopping every 160 miles or so.

    I had the Weather Channel on while I was researching on the internet last night and heard that Little Rock and Memphis had record breaking heat indicies of 112 and 116. I certainly pick the days to travel.

    I emailed one of the organizers of the F650 get together in Vermont. He contacted an F650 rider  in Louisville about 40 miles north of where I was staying. That rider, Rick, emailed his phone number and told me to call him in the morning.

    My plan was to get up in the morning to check the ABS/speed sensor on the rear wheel and see if I could figure it out myself. 2:30 AM to 10:00 PM. I was pooped and called it a day.

  • Treasures of Yosemite Ride Wrap Up

    A friend made the comment in an email to me after I decided to take advantage of the window in weather and head home that it was a shame I rode through the finest landscape there is in the country (riding Utah and Colorado and not stopping). At first the comment hurt my feelings since it sounded like I had somehow failed. But then I was okay with it. I was, after all, on a motorcycle ride and I had seen some incredibly beautiful scenery. I didn’t do everything I hoped to do, but I rode 4,200 miles by myself, through a lot of adverse weather conditions. For a newbie rider, I feel that was a great success. And life is a learning experience — I couldn’t find out what I liked and didn’t like about this kind of ride without doing it.

    I have to admit I was a little scared about riding alone when I was heading out, but that was quickly replaced by being afraid of the wind. What a way to start a trip — 65 MPH wind gusts and dust storms.

    After I got through the wind conditions in Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona I was confident and happy riding alone. I was a little apprehensive riding into Death Valley alone because there were no towns and no traffic, just miles and miles of road with nothing but warning signs about water for radiators, but I thoroughly enjoyed the ride and would recommend it to anyone heading out to California.  The rides both down into and up out of the valley are stunning and the immensity of Death Valley can only be comprehended by riding or driving through it.

    Right before my first out of town ride (to Eureka Springs, AR) I had read David Hough’s book Proficient Motorcycling literally finishing it the night before I left. Great book, but story after story that ended badly. All those stories had me so spooked that it negatively effected my riding the entire trip to Arkansas and back. All I could do was watch for the things the book mentioned and be afraid of them.

    I don’t know what my problem is but it seems to take a long time for me to get stories like that filed away as useful information and not something that scares me.

    David Hough was the guest speaker at the rally and I had the pleasure of sitting next to him at the banquet Saturday evening and also attended a couple of his seminars. He’s a really great guy and I got good information, but he talked about a lot of bad things that happen while riding. David’s stories have a point to them — trying to help you learn from the mistakes of others and hopefully avoid them yourself. But the stories still scared me.

    It seems like a lot of people who ride want to swap stories about the accidents they hear about. Personally, I don’t get this. Wouldn’t it be like drivers getting together and talking about car accidents, or people who are facing heart surgery getting together to talk about everyone who died in heart surgery? While I thoroughly understand anyone who has been in an accident needing to talk about it, I don’t get all the other people who can’t wait to tell you accident stories.

    While I still do a lot of reading to learn more about riding a motorcycle I make sure it’s well before a planned ride so the information can kind of settle in my brain and not cause me problems. I try to avoid people who like to discuss every accident they’ve heard about.

    Bottom line, once again I had those stories in my head and the rider who left the rally (me) wasn’t the same rider who had arrived. My confidence was gone and fear had taken it’s place. So when I took a route north that turned into tight little mountain turns at elevation with no guard rails I choked and got really scared. While it got better the next day, I never totally got over it for the remainder of the trip. I either need to figure out how to avoid this stuff or how to process it so it doesn’t effect my riding.

    Also while at the rally I mentioned the wind I’d encountered on the trip out and an experienced rider told me the bike knows how to handle the wind and I should keep a really loose hold on the handle grips. I have to admit my reaction to getting hit by a gust of wind that moves me around the road is for me to grab hard on the handle bar. I took his suggestion to heart and it really helped me when crossing northern Nevada and Utah in high side winds. The wind was much less tiring to me physically those days and he was right — the bike knew what to do when hit by a gust and didn’t really need my choke hold.

    There are pros and cons for me riding alone. I could get up and go when I wanted, stop when I wanted, eat when I wanted. I probably didn’t eat enough backed up by the fact I spent $162 on food in 12 days and a good part of that was bottled water. I am good about staying hydrated. I was able to use my throttle lock a lot to let my hand rest because I was determining the speed of the ride, not the person ahead of me. But it’s always been comforting to me to have Jean-Francois ahead of me on long trips since he looks out for me, and I missed that a lot. I also chose to be conservative and not do some things that I would have liked because I was afraid of dropping the bike while I was alone or getting the motorcycle someplace I couldn’t get out of. Camping is definitely an issue when I’m alone since I have asked to have my motorcycle moved for me on many occasions to get out of dirt or gravel parking areas. I figure moving it is a better option than picking it up.

    I don’t regret erring on the side of caution. I wasn’t sure on the way out to California if I was being a weenie or being smart when I stopped due to 65 mph gusts being forecast the first two days. When I approached Grants, New Mexico the next day and saw the large flashing sign “Reduce speed! Dust storm ahead!” I figured I had made the right choice. Seeing a couple RV’s on their sides along the side of the road confirmed that.

    I made all 4,200 miles without dropping my motorcycle — sort of a change of pace for me. I came close when I had to find a place to turn around near Ely, Nevada and got off in deep gravel, but I was able to keep going and didn’t fall. I was out in the middle of nowhere with no one around, so that was scary.

    I got home safely — I think some of my conservative decisions contributed to that.

    Was I scared sometimes? Yep. I was afraid of the high wind at times, switchbacks still scare me, being out in the middle of nowhere alone was a little intimidating, and the snow storm was a level of terror I hope I never revisit.

    Did I learn a lot? Of course. I learned I have skills I still need to work on. That you don’t ride 12,000 feet Colorado mountain passes in May. I learned how to handle wind better (even though I still don’t like it). I learned that possibly extended mountain rides, rides through totally isolated territory, and camping rides should be done with a riding buddy so I may head for flatter terrain on the next solo ride. It seems that while I love mountains, desert isn’t the landscape that makes my heart sing so I think I need to head for the coast next time around.

    Did I have a great time and would I do it again? In a heartbeat. I’m already planning my next ride.

  • Slide shows added

    I updated the web site with two slide shows from the trip out to California and back. Most of my pictures were taken while riding, since that’s what I spent a lot of time doing.

    http://motorcycle-journeys.com/current/photos/photos.html has all four 2010 photo slide shows

    http://motorcycle-journeys.com/current/photos/toy_2010/index.html will take you to 36 pictures from the Treasures of Yosemite ride overall.

    http://motorcycle-journeys.com/current/photos/lehman_caves/index.html has 11 pictures from Lehman Caves in Great Basin National Park in eastern Nevada.

    I saw a lot of incredible scenery, but most of the pictures are in my head, not in my camera.